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1999_ford_ranger.md

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title description published date tags editor dateCreated
1999_ford_ranger
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2023-07-22 17:42:44 UTC
markdown
2021-01-27 23:19:41 UTC

1999 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L V6 5-speed

Contents

Links

TheRangerStation
RangerForums
Library of Technical Info & Modifications @ TheRangerStation
3rd generation rangers @ Wikipedia https://www.moderndriveline.com/category/how-tos/

Parts

Specifications

  • Engine:
    • Ford Vulcan (1998-99) 182 cu in (3.0 L) OHV V6
    • 145 hp (108 kW); 178 lb-ft (241 Nm) (1998-1999 version)
    • Oil:
    • Coolant:
  • Transmission:
    • Mazda 5-speed M5OD-R1 Manual
    • Fluid: Motorcraft MERCON Multi-Purpose ATF XT-2-QDX or -DDX (E4XZ-19582-B) or Equiv. -- 5.6 US Pints / 2.8 Qts / 2.65 L
  • Clutch
  • Tires:
    • Size:
    • Inflation: 30 PSI cold (front & rear)

Problems

  • The most common problem reported with the 3.0L is the camshaft position sensor. Learn more about it HERE.
  • Head gasket failures are also common when the cooling system is neglected -- An issue to watch out for is air in the coolant system when you refill it. One of the hoses has a point that is actually higher than the radiator and can allow an air pocket if not filled properly.

Modifications

  • See TRS Page
  • Consider changing gear ratio to improve low end performance (e.g. 3.73's to 4.10's)

Regular maintenance

  • change oil & filter (fill filter)
  • clean air filter
  • flush coolant
  • transmission fluid - every 2 years?
  • grease output shaft? (in outer boot?)
  • inspect U-joints & grease if applicable:
    • driveshaft
  • inspect seals:
    • oil filter
    • oil pan plug
    • oil pan gasket
    • rear main seal
    • transmission input
    • transmission output (extension housing)
  • inspect fasteners:
    • wheel lugs
    • driveshaft
    • engine mounts (2)
    • engine-to-transmission bolts
    • transmission mount (1)
    • transmission crossmember
    • clutch / flywheel attachment

Engine

Vulcan @ TheRangerStation
Vulcan @ Wikipedia
Rebuild info @ TRS

Replacing engine mounts

thread @ TRS \

Intake

Vacuum & Exhaust

TRS Library - Exhaust
Vacuum Hose Diagram Vacuum diagram abbreviations

Smoke Signals (from TRS):

  • Blue smoke from a tailpipe indicates that engine oil is being burned, and that unburned hydrocarbons (HC) are being released into the air.
  • Black smoke from a tailpipe indicates that the air-fuel mixture is too rich to burn completely.
  • White smoke is steam, and is normally visible on a cold day. However it can also indicate an internal engine coolant leak, especially if accompanied by a pungent odor.

Transmission

All the power passes thru the input gears when accelerating, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears tend to be highest stress, and... if a manual trans does have a problem then input gears can be suspected, especially if 4th still works.

Video- Pro transmission installation

rubber shift rail plug replacement (3X) One thing to watch out for with the M5OD-R1 is the 3 rubber shift rail plugs at the top back of shift housing, these rot out and trans loses fluid over time which can cause premature failure. There are metal plug replacements for these. -- e.g. Dorman 555-108 (possibly discontinued) -- or tap & insert threaded pip plugs See this thread.... "You're looking for a plug with a 0.625 (5/8) outside diameter, with a height of around 0.220. Those are the dimensions of the original Dorman plugs. If you can no longer find the Dorman option, search for engine freeze plugs using those dimensions. Try to find as close as possible on the height, outside dimension needs to be exact."

Input Shaft Seal Replacement: Workshop Manual 308-03-45

  • Remove front bearing retainer plate (unbolt & pry at bottom tab).
  • Flip plate over and tap out the input shaft seal.
  • Clean everything and ensure oil holes are clear.
  • I lubed the machined hole around front bearing with a little ATF -- shrug
  • Clean mating surfaces.
  • I lubed the 2 metal shims & the fluid baffle with assembly lube
  • I sealed the machined flange with a thin bead of anaerobic flange sealant.
  • Bolt bearing retainer plate with blue threadlocker, to 12-16 Lb-Ft (6 bolts, 12mm).

Output Shaft Seal Replacement:

  • I used PB Blaster around the rusty old seal, then pried / tapped with a screwdriver til it popped.
  • Cleaned hole, perhaps too roughly (used a little sandpaper on stubborn bits). Hence the sealant used in next step.
  • Applied a small bead of Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker in the output hole, and carefully tapped in the new seal. (max gap 0.01" without primer)

Shifter Repair Kit - M5R1 M5R2 Shifter Repair Kit -- bushing and boot replacement kit for M5ODR1, M5ODR1HD, and M5ODR2

Clutch

As far as I can tell, the clutch included in the Ford OEM clutch kit (# 7L596) is exactly identical to LUK 07140 (clutch only -- $117 @ RockAuto), except for the Ford logo. The slave cylinder contained in the Ford kit is mostly plastic, as is typical. The kit also includes a pilot bearing. I opted for a National pilot bearing # FC65354.

Bleeding:

  • Special note: The mounting position of the master cylinder on the firewlal traps air in the rear portion of the cylinder. Before bleeding, remove the master cylinder from the fireweall and position it so the reservoir end is higher than the push rod end. This will enable air ot escape from the rear portion of the cylinders. For addition info, refer to Ford bulletin #93-12-19.
  • good video about bleeding: part 1 - part 2

Self-adjusting clutch:

Replacing the clutch set, flywheel, pilot bearing, & slave cylinder:

  • remove shifter lever, shifter base, & then plug the shifter hole with a rag or something.
  • lift truck. secure truck from rolling (driveshaft will be disconnected).
  • disconnect battery.
  • remove driveshaft, first marking how it aligns with the rear differential (a mark along the length of driveshaft, continuing onto differential). I needed a breaker bar for the 4 driveshaft bolts (12mm star I think).
  • unbolt starter (3 bolts).
  • disconnect various electrical connections from transmission.
  • unbolt crossmember from each side rail and remove 2 bolts in middle.
  • unbolt transmission's remaining 6 bolts (9 total).
  • partially remove exhaust if it's in the way of transmission removal.
  • remove transmission, moving it back a few inches and lowering it with a jack. It weighs about 90 lbs.
  • remove clutch
  • remove pilot bearing with loaner puller or drive it out hydraulically with bread & grease. Yes, bread & grease. First, note position of pilot bearing in its hole -- then inspect for bearing wear on transmission's input shaft. I pulled bearing before removing flywheel, to avoid hammering near the new flywheel later.
  • remove flywheel
  • .....
  • grease the input shaft spline -- some pros say to never grease this, that it will ruin the clutch friction material. If greasing, grease only the input shaft, so that excess is pushed back and not forward. Use very little -- maybe a long-term moly grease. LuK: "a small quantity of heat-resistant, aging-resistant, high performance grease with MoS₂ (e.g. Castrol Olista Longtime 2 or 3)"

Brakes

Suspension

Electrical